20 September 2021

DIOR EN ROSES

 Dior Museum Grandville France




Exposition en cours....

DIOR EN ROSES


Always a pleasure to visit this lovely childhood home of M. Dior. Not only is the museum a full of exquisite Dior creations, but the grounds are spectacular. The current exhibition has roses in the title and there are lots of roses in the gardens.

The House of Dior has had many different skilled people at the helm since Christian Diors untimely death in 1957, but the quality, charm and beauty of the clothes remains unchanged.

Starting on the ground floor, here are some photos from my visit last week......










Up the splendid staircase to the first floor and a stunning case of dusty pink costumes. 



The sheer sculptural style of this....







 










Then the sharp jewel tones of these..









Look at the black roses on the floor of this case...











Swirls and swoops and fluid shapes.








And finally the second floor and more dusty pink and miniature examples of classic styles.









And the man himself in 1949





It is an enchanting museum. Exquisite clothes. Very well signed and beautifully designed displays. 
The English guide is well translated and very comprehensive. 
The staff are always pleasant and the shop is a delight.


Et un merci spécial à la charmante dame de la boutique qui m'a dit le mot français 'scénographie'. Je l'ai encore utilisé aujourd'hui !

A la prochaine ......



13 April 2021

PRETTY AND PRACTICAL

Pretty and Practical in a glass case.

Several small objects from the Henfield Museum Costume Collection arranged ready for you to see when the museum reopens......






Sadly I do not know when we will be open again, but a check on the website 

Henfield Museum   
 will keep you up to date.

If you prefer to go straight to the costume collection, here's the link for that feast of gorgeous costume.

Henfield Museum Costume Collection


Henfield Museum on Facebook has weekly posts about the costume collection.




Starting on the left there is a fine example of a mid Victorian painted silk fan, complete with its own box. The box has a painting on silk lining the lid.


Pretty lace on a small hanky next. The hanky has its own voile sachet, complete with embroidered design and pink silk pad to keep the hanky safe. This is the smallest sachet of a set of three, the largest being a nightdress case. c1930s.


The final item on the left of the case is a tapestry style evening bag. c1900. The gold chain handle is just the right length to dangle from your wrist and the cut steel studs make the frame sparkle. Inside is just as lovely. There is a pocket for a mirror and a tiny champagne coloured silk purse has been handmade and added to the inside.




On the right hand side we are into practical territory, with the addition of a treasured fragment of a dress kept as a memento. The exquisite beaded panel, carefully cut from some long ago dress, sparkles and impress still.  It is tambour work and carries the remains of coffee coloured chiffon as a backing. c1930s


A small but well stocked needle case is next. It has a label from Kirkby, Beard and Co. The picture on the front is of a dimpled young miss dressed in the style of the 1920s. Kirkby made Kirbigrip hair pins. In the 1860s they made more than twenty million a week!


Buttons are necessary and these cards of linen covered buttons reflect how many were used for shirts and undergarments. They were made flat so as to go through a mangle. 20th century.


And finally we come to a tiny shift. It is a  sewing exercise and beautifully done. The button and button hole on the shoulder is perfect. The dress measures 22cm/9" from shoulder to hem. 20th century.







12 November 2020

Once upon a time in Alsace




Ecomusée d'Alsace 

              Situated 18km from the city of Mulhouse in eastern France.



Once upon a time, when going out for the day was possible, you could visit the Ecomusée in Alsace in France. A very good place for going back in time to see coifs and houses and shops in a beautiful setting. Here are a few photos of my favourite things that I saw one day in August.







A coif. A female head covering that conveyed by its style, construction and materials the wearers social standing and their religion. There were different styles for confirmation, marriage and mourning.



 



Permanent wave machines and an example of the finished product 



Devices to make curls, to straighten your hair and to set it in waves.




A country clothes shop


Note the large roll of brown paper on the counter. Used to wrap customers purchases. 




A reproduction of a female outfit
Displayed in the type of bedroom the wearer would have known 









Many different styles of dwelling are represented in the buildings that are reconstructed in the museum.
Most are furnished in era appropriate ways. There are shops and artisan works too.






A middle class interior from early 1900s




A treasured Art Deco (style moderne in French) light shade




Cobbles and a donkey
                      
A venerable door. Wallpapered at some stage to bring it up to date!











A lot of chimneys have huge storks nests. When I first saw a stork I thought it was a model.
Until it moved...









23 September 2020

Musée de l'Impression sur étoffes or The museum of printing on fabric.

           


  
                                                                              
                                                                                  
   

Visiting the museum of fabric printing in Mulhouse in eastern France, the first pleasure comes from your ticket.   

Fittingly for a museum about fabric, the ticket is just that...fabric.


Explanatory case notes (handily written in English and German in case your français est un peu rouillé) provide clear easy to follow notes on history and techniques. 

They explain that textile printing uses the same techniques as dying cloth. Before the textile is put into the dying vat, the mordant is applied using a wooden board. This permits the colour to penetrate the fabric, thus revealing the pattern.




I was drawn to the reconstruction of a paletot ( a close fitting jacket worn by women 19th century). This was a digital print on cotton canvas from pattern "4157", originally patented in 1865.



Sample vials of colours 19thc.






By the 18th century the European textile trade was so important that legislation was introduced to safeguard the origin of the fabric produced. Designs of printed fabrics had to be countermarked; amongst the details were the name of the manufacturer and the date of printing. These marks served as advertising at the time and now constitute a valuable archive resource.




This display of countermarked fabrics includes examples from Switzerland,Germany, France and of course Mulhouse itself.


Some more modern fabric designs.


A furnishing sample 'Lily of the Valley'

English. c1900






A furnishing sample 'Poppies in a vase' 

French or English 1930s





The processes of printing are here as well...old and new. 



  
 
This is a STORK ink printer c1980s. 
Designed specifically to print textiles.


These are the staff from the Schaeffer & Co textile factory on the outskirts of Mulhouse c 1880.












As well as colours and designs and equipment, the museum has some good examples of printed fabrics made up into clothing.




This caraco 
from Alsace (?) c1800 is in a print called 'Bonnes Herbes'. A caraco translates as a camisole in English. The term can refer to a longer woman's jacket, but is used here for something I would call a spencer.









 

This beautiful gown was produced in 1992, using an English fabric design. The maker was a school pupil at a school in Strasbourg for their 'clothing and creation technician' assignment.


This is the delightful looking tearoom in the museum. Sadly closed due to Covid restrictions. Of course the tablecloths were lovely....I may be glimpsed in the bottom left hand corner ....complete with chic mask....

Well worth a visit.

http://www.musee-impression.com/

Musée de l'impression sur Etoffes
14 rue Jean-Jacques Henner
68100 Mulhouse France