28 October 2017

The Ladies Emporium Through a Lens.


The Ladies Emporium has been shot. 
Through a lens. 
Here are some details and close ups to enjoy.
More to follow


 




                             




Mauve evening gown c1900 with beads and brilliants. The neck trim is a later addition, presumably when the dress had a large v shaped piece of (almost ) mauve material inserted into the back of the bodice. The split sleeves are linked by bands of velvet. 




                   



  All pictures © Chris Dawson.                                                                     Photographer and friend.

11 October 2017

Aiglets,Coifs & a Gold Lamé Crown.


The Mary Rose

A Tudor Warship.

Launched July 1511. 
Sank July 1545, Solent, England

The sea closing over the wreck did not conceal the ship and its world for ever.  In 1982 the wreck was raised and thousands of relics were reclaimed from the waters of the Solent. Each item brought to the surface was suspended in time from that July day in 1545.



There are many many things to see in the Mary Rose museum in Portsmouth.So by your leave, gentle Madam and Sir, here are some examples of the Tudor clothing on show in the museum. Hard to believe that anything could survive hundreds of years under water, but there are leather shoes, velvet caps and even fragments of woollen socks on display.


Lets start at the top.

Two coifs. 
One in silk, likely for daily wear. 
A velvet one, lined in silk. Both belonged to the ships Surgeon.




An officers woollen hat, silk lined, edged with lace.




      Leather jerkins.
This leather jerkin is double sided, so the pocket may be worn inside or out. It is displayed here with a knitted hat and a knitted jerkin in rose madder. Amazingly the original colour of rose madder is still there.The scraps of check material are the remains of a shirt.

Purse hangers. Just the metal remains.
   

Woollen stockings or hose.

These fragments are from the foot part of a pair of socks.

            
                                        This is a knitted sock without a foot.


There were lots of shoes found. They were expensive things to own, so several pairs had been kept stowed away and not worn whilst on board.Some sailors went barefoot while they worked, developing hard calluses on their feet.

These have a hole in the sole. Sometimes repairs were beyond the reach of sailors.Owning a pair of shoes was one thing. Maintaining them quite another.



                An officers shoes.








Wealthy officers could afford leather boots. This is an early example of showy possessions. Not practical to be worn when you worked on board ship, but showed off your financial status to others.








Hunting mittens used with birds of prey? 
One worn inside the other. Sheepskin.








Aiglets abound. The brass having stood the test of time well. There were shoes in the chest where these aiglets were found, but they did not have lace holes, so the laces are assumed to have been used to fasten clothes.


Wire fastening hoops, the ‘other half of the set’for the laces.



One aiglet still has the remains of a woollen lace  

           


Belt Buckles in fine brass.

           
                            Woven silk ribbon. 
                        Perhaps uniform trim?



Thread, thimbles and bobbins. 
                                            









Needles  (all rusted away as made of iron) were used to repair sails as well as clothes.

As well as the displays of Tudor clothing and shoes rescued from the sea, there was a mannequin there wearing a modern reproduction of a crew members outfit, complete with jerkin.


Even better were the costumed staff in the museum. These are the shoes worn by one patient sole (!) who shared with me that they were comfortable to wear and they had all been measured by having their feet drawn round.

            














There was a dressing up chest by the door…lots of velvets, lace and lamé, but no takers the whole time I was there.




 



The Star Of The Show                                                                                                             

  





Even if you don’t like ships, or Tudor history or very gloomy lighting levels (for obvs reasons), visit this museum. See the vessel, the crew, their clothes and even the skeleton of the ships dog. 
Just stand and look. 
You are staring history in the face.









1 October 2017

THE LADIES EMPORIUM GETS NEW STOCK


FRESH IN FOR OCTOBER.....

The latest additions to The Ladies Emporium display at Henfield Museum have arrived.





Edwardian evening or wedding shoes.








They are resplendent in pewter silk brocade with a louis heel and decorative rosette.



The rosette has a cut steel detail that adds a little sparkle.




Finished inside with white kid, they are unmarked as to a maker. 



Time has taken its toll on the fabric , but the leather soles and heels are ready for their next walk.



They are almost as lovely as the dancing shoes in grey suede with silver sequins already in the case. So have a look at my previous post about the Emporium on this blog and take a look at the dancing shoes and the other delights available in  THE LADIES EMPORIUM 
       
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24 September 2017

CHRISTIAN DIOR ET GRANVILLE

‘Aux Sources De La Légende’

Now open until 7th January 2018

Musée Christian Dior
Villa Les Rhumbs
50400 Granville
France


Many museums have close links with their subject matter. Few museums can have such close an association with its ‘name’ as the Musée Christian Dior.  For the villa housing the museum, Les Rhumbs, was where M. Dior spent his early years.
As part of the celebrations for the 70th year of the Dior fashion house, this exhibition reveals how Granville and the Dior family home influenced and shaped M. Diors thinking and career. 

The clothes on display are magnificent and beautifully set out. Each case is imaginatively set and the information boards are full of detail. The museum supplies excellent non French language notes, so you don’t have to miss a thing.As well as the garments themselves the exhibition enables you to discover what the rooms of the house were used for when the Dior family lived there. I have been to many exhibits here, but this added a dimension to the experience for me. Knowing you were in the dining room or that this room was Christian Dior’s bedroom was delightful.I enjoyed finding out snippets from the past… discovering ‘Miss Dior’ perfume was named after Catherine Dior, Christians younger sister. Reading that the pink and grey colours that figure in Dior history stem from the pink painted house and the grey gravel garden paths. Finding out that M. Dior ‘fell in love ‘with British food and enjoyed a full English and mince pies (though not simultaneously I trust.) It is all background and explanation and the sort of historical detail that is very satisfying to know. As an example of the meticulous and stylish way these exhibitions are managed, one case held a pink day dress from CD’s New York collection S/S1957 and a grey dress from A/W 1951’s Haute Couture. Both perfect examples of the signature colours and as the final touch, the pink dress had a grey card with its details and the grey a pink. A small thing, but very pleasing.


The clothes shown were a mixture of early Dior and later designers who carried the torch onwards.  Marc Bohan…Raf Simons …both had their day. There was too much of Galliano there I felt. His clothes are so OTT and theatrical as to jar against the style and flair of the other designers.
I enjoyed my visit tremendously. Do go if you can…the gardens are (almost) worth the trip alone.




La Villa Les Rhumbs c1920 & present day.
LHS ©Musée Christian Dior.RHS Collection Ville de Granville ©Benoit Croisy.



17 September 2017

A Museum In A Shirt Factory. Un Musée Dans Une Usine De Chemises.

Musée de la Chemiserie

Argenton-sur-Creuse

Indre. France




Shirts in colour and shirts in white
Colourful cufflinks and collars in a box.

The museum of shirts has certainly got shirts, but it also has cufflinks and collars, waistcoats and dressing gowns.

To give it its full title ‘Musee de la Chemiserie et de l’élégance masculine’ (or the Museum of shirt making and masculin elegance if you prefer) is a gem. Single themed museums can be a little specialist, focused if you will, but they can also introduce you to ideas and styles and images that you have missed,

The museum building is a former shirt factory and is large and light and airy.
There are temporary and permanent exhibitions.

Up to the permanent exhibition first.
17thcentury



First you see the white billowing shirts associated with cavaliers and cads.

Then into a beautifully laid out gallery, which gives the impression of a gentleman’s club. Notices are in English and French, ensuring you get all the details.

 



The story of the shirt and its place in society plays out case by case. White shirts, collarless shirts. Colourful shirts.


And a few curios like the shirt worn by Frank Sinatra, designed with a panel from the back buttoning at the front to make sure his shirt stayed neatly tucked in when he was on stage.

There are work shirts and sport shirts and military too, contextualised with notes, ties, and original packaging.

Collarless shirts and collars to go with them abound. A few waistcoats have their place, as does mention of personal hygiene and bathing habits.

Pleasing to note that laundry was sent by to England by the rich in the 1900s. England was considered to be the only country that had the secret of perfect laundering and starching.
 




 My favourite part was the cufflinks.
 The case of 1970s cufflinks speaks volumes about taste in the 70s, not to mention how strong shirt wearers arms where.

Much use is made to very great effect of contemporary publicity materials. From a gorgeous art deco green shirt advertising prop to a Don Draperesque crisp white shirt and tie shop fitting.







       

 There is a marvellous recreated workroom you can walk round, describing daily life in the factories.Sadly it also details how the shirt industry has shrunk. During the Belle Époque (1871-1914), described as the golden age of the shirt factories in the region, 3000 workers were employed in various workshops; by the 1960s 17 workshops employed 1200 machinists. They made for Dior and Pierre Cardin amongst others. No wonder Argenton was known as ‘La Cité de la Chemise’….’The City of the Shirt’.

The temporary exhibition at the moment is about dressing gowns. It is charmingly entitled ‘Home Sweet Home, Cocooning au masculin’, which is a lovely title what ever language you speak.

         

Well worth a visit to this and to the whole museum.

With grateful thanks to the Museum and to the Curator Mme Nathalie Gaillard.

Merci Mme Gaillard. Votre musée est splendide et très intéressant. J'espère que quiconque lira ce blog pensera à visiter le musée un jour. Merci gracieusement.



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